In England, the Tuesday before lent is traditionally celebrated by eating a stack of pancakes.
But in Atherstone, a small town about 100 miles northwest of London, the locals gathered for a more bloody ritual: At 3 p.m. on the town’s main street, a ball was thrown out of the second-story window of a mortgage broker’s office, and dozens of men roared in unison as they piled on top of it.
They punched and shoved each other as they scrambled for the ball, eventually emerging from the scrum with road rash and swollen faces. One young player smiled at onlookers, revealing a mouth of bloodied braces.
This is the Atherstone Ball Game, an 826-year-old tradition in this Warwickshire town, and one of a dwindling number of ancient football games played across Britain on Shrove Tuesday, known as Fat Tuesday in the United States. King John is said to have initiated the town’s first match, between Leicestershire and Warwickshire, in 1199. He offered a bag of gold for the winner, the story goes, creating a frenzied competition whose spirit lives on in today’s game.
Locals often say there are only two rules to the game: Keep the ball on the town’s main street, and don’t kill anyone. In reality, there’s a bit more to it than that, organizers say (and the no-killing rule is hyperbole).
But at its core, the game is simple. Participants kick and carry a leather ball up and down the city’s main street for two hours. In the final minutes, they fight for possession of the ball until a klaxon sounds, ending the game.
